Work vertical sections, covering as much as possible with long strokes of the roller. If you have smaller areas that need to be painted, use a nylon polyester brush. Allow the first coat to dry for 12 hours.
Do this by touching the paint gently with a rag or gloved finger. There should be no transfer. Apply a second coat of paint using a 0. Work slowly, taking a little bit of paint on the roller at a time and applying in long, smooth strokes.
Allow the paint to dry for 24 hours. Test to see if the paint is dry by touching it with a gloved hand or rag in an inconspicuous area. Be sure to wait at least 12 hours before applying a third coat.
Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Always paint in a well-ventilated area, and wear clothing that covers your skin for protection.
Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. Use drop cloths or tarps to protect surfaces from paint drips and spills. This is important for both indoor and outdoor painting, to protect your floors as well as the environment! Related wikiHows How to. How to. More References 1. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: 5. Updated: September 15, Article Summary X To paint cinderblocks, first, get the cinderblocks ready by scrubbing them with a masonry cleaner and scrub brush to remove any powdery deposits.
Bahasa Indonesia: Mengecat Batako. Nederlands: Betonblokken schilderen. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. Someone suggested painting the blocks, and your article showed me how! More reader stories Hide reader stories.
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The biggest problem you will have is paint bubbling from water coming through the walls. Could try priming with Drylok masonry primer then painting. I have a cinder block basement built in , and to avoid drywall wanted to paint and seal for moisture. Can I just dry brush and vacuum all loose debris, or do I need some other chemical and let dry? What are your thoughts on Loxon primer, maybe even the combined primer and topcoat version. Or, should I use some other brand for best adherence longevity?
Yes, vacuuming is fine. The efflorescence will need some washing, white vinegar, no-rinse TSP and warm water will work for most deposits. A really good foundation primer, below grade, is Drylok. It can be painted over with any paint you choose. Drylok can stop moisture from coming through the wall and bubbling your paint.
The basement has never been painted before. Other than cleaning, what should I do to prep for painting? Something else? After cleaning and repairs, if needed, a good primer must be applied. Zinsser or equivalent. For a better seal use Drylok as a primer. I am preparing to repaint exterior of my block house.
It has been repainted a number of times and layers are not peeling, its in good shape. My husband said latex would be ok, but I am afraid that it will peel as it did on the interior bedroom wall. Trying to do it as cheaply as possible as I have many other projects going.
A high quality acrylic exterior paint will stick well to a clean surface. I am painting over previously painted block foundation in the basement.
The bottom two feet of the block have efflorescence and the paint is bubbled but there are also areas where the block is actually crumbling. I have removed all loose paint and scraped with wire brush. I have etched all exposed concrete with Muriatic acid. I was planning on spot priming with zinsser and then painting entire basement walls and floors. Is there something else I should be doing?
Should I be using drylock instead of primer? What should i do about the crumbling concrete? Drylok is a great primer that can help stabilize masonry surfaces.
At this point it would be a good idea to spend a little extra and apply Dryloc. Also, look to the cause of water infiltration of your basement walls. Landscaping, such as inadequate drainage, or a leaking gutter can cause big problems. What would you recommend in this scenario? First carefully scrape any loose paint, wash if needed no-rinse TSP works good.
Now apply a primer, Zinsser or Kilz acrylic. The primer will help with the loose mortar, gluing it together. At this point you can do some patching or go ahead and paint. Use a semi-gloss paint to help with the moisture. Wonderful site, Thank you! I am about to paint my cinder block 2 story garage exterior. Every paint store tells me something different!
One side is shaded all the time and built into a hill, seems damp inside. Problem for another day! Was told a latex without primer would work. You seem to recommend Acrylic? Hope to use a regular paint due to cost, as opposed to a specialty type. Thank you! Acrylic and latex are the same thing now days. You can use a regular paint.
The biggest thing with cinder blocks is their pores, lots of them. Make sure to use enough paint and work it well to fill these pores. Does the cement block exterior wall need to be dry to paint? We have pressure washed it and it has rained every day since. Depends on the type of paint being used. For block fill primer and an elastomeric coating, damp block is OK. For a regular house paint the block needs to be dry.
High temperatures do affect painting, including concrete blocks. The primer block fill and paint dry too fast, not penetrating or sealing well plus all around looking bad. Typically lower temps are best, around mids, but misting with water can help at high temps.
Misting works best with acrylic block fill primer and elastomeric coatings, test with other materials for bubbling during drying. I have a recently constructed cmu shop and just finished aggressively pressure washing the interior walls for paint. How do I estimate paint consumption? Block is density is pounds per cubic foot very porous and is very common here in Florida. Pre-fill the pores with a block-fill primer, standard acrylic will work for most circumstances. This will give you more predictable coverage for the epoxy.
Use the manufactures recommended coverage, on the can or msds. Hi, first of all I am impressed with the site content and you taking time and answering questions!
I have hopefully a quick question — I have removed old stucco or alike looked awful so I could not resist and I am down to some of old paint and original cinder block from s. Will power wash and I would like to paint it. However in a year or so I would like to add some texture textured concrete or alike or culture stone or stone. I would like to make sure that paint will not cause that nothing will stick to the wall later? Is it safe to seal and paint if planning to add something on the top of this in a years?
I think adding the stone will be fine. You can always attached some expanded metal lath with concrete screws to help with adhesion. But adding a texture could be problematic. It would be best to apply the texture new stucco finish coat or?? For the stucco repair use a efis base coat and acrylic top coat for the texture. You might need to look for a local stucco supplier for the materials or use Rapid Set Motor Mix or Cement All for the base repair and possibly the texture coat as well depending on the look your after.
Be warned these materials set up very fast, you might need to use Set Control to give you some extra working time. All of these materials are available at Home Depot. Hi — have a couple of homes in sunny hot Arizona needing painted Want to know best process to get this one home repainted.
Advice appreciated. At this point paint proceeds as normal. Choosing a good quality paint and applying 2 coats on everything will help. I like brushing and rolling whenever possible to push the primer and paint into surface pores. Lighter colors with a good sheen is a good idea. Thank you so much for providing such valuable information, and taking the time to answer questions. We installed decorative concrete block breeze block in our carport in Seattle a year ago. We are finally getting around to painting it.
I scraped off all loose concrete and power washed it today. Any other tips for us? We are using a lovely dark grey masonry paint from Farrow and Ball. It was pricy so we are hoping to get it right the first time ;. Sound like you already know what your doing. Correct, use acrylic block fill primer to seal up the block. Work the primer as well as you can into the pores, if needed apply 2 coats. And be mindful of the weather.
I am attempting to paint some concrete walls in the basement of our home. I am using a Glidden latex interior paint for a top coat. I have attempted applying this Glidden paint directly over the previously painted wall, as well as used a Drylok waterproofer and BIN shellac based primer. Each time I put the Glidden paint on, it bubbles and will not stick to the wall or primers. Any suggestions on how to get the paint to stick?
Well, use a better paint. Sherwin Williams ProMar or better. You try another primer, Zinsser acrylic. The bubbling is a bit perplexing; even cheap paint should go on without bubbling. Something is coming threw the primers, moisture maybe?? The sticking problem is the paint, need to use a better paint. I love this site! We have repainted our Florida concrete block house with great success! We washed, we peeled, we sealed, and we painted. We had a new concrete block addition as well as stuff that had not been touched in 20 years of Florida sun.
It looks new and wonderful and we saved thousands of dollars doing it ourselves. Thank you for all of your helpful information. No peeling , no mold and very few cracks to patch. Can I wash it with a hose and stiff pole brush or do I need to pressure wash it. If I use a quality paint will my paint job last.
Please give me your advice on how to do the job. Make sure to rinse well if soaps are used. Using a good quality paint is a must in all situations and helps provide lasting good results. Second to quality paint is quality caulking. Make sure to seal around windows, doors and all wall protrusions with the best caulking you can afford.
I want to paint a newer block wall that separates my neighbor and I. I live in a dry climate in southern california. It seems most comments and directions here are for basements or walls that are part of a home where I can see needing to be sealed from moisture.
What do you recommend? Moisture transferring through the block could be a problem with using paint. A masonry stain will be a better choice, solid color acrylic masonry stain. I have a mural painted on an exterior cinder block wall and want to protect it. It was primed and then painted with acrylic paint. What can I put on it to help preserve it and not dull the colors?
Seal-Krete masonry sealer would work well or any exterior grade acrylic clear-coat will work, could even use a varnish or poly. The cabin has had a mouse problem and we have been eliminating them, but do to the infestation, there are actually trails along the block at the top of the walls where these dirty little things travelled over the years. We have been cleaning them with bleach water with some success, but some areas are very stubborn.
What would you recommend for cleaning? We have also had a moisture problem in the basement, so is there a sealer that could help with both issues? TSP, hot water and a scrub will be your best cleaning option. Make sure to rinse well. For the primer use Drylok, or similar, on the moisture problem areas. For other areas a standard acrylic primer, like Zinsser , will work well. If you have stains coming through the primer spot prime or seal the stains with either Zinsser Cover Stain or a shellac primer.
Is there a way to remove this ugly grey residue from the red brick? Can you advise on how best to remove the red paint? Or are we stuck with trying to paint over the chipping red areas in grey? This would be the same as any masonry surface. You have a choice as to the finish; Use a primer then paint regular paint or elastomeric coating or use a masonry stain. There will be periodic maintenance as all stains or coatings will need to be refreshed time from time.
You might have to use a mild acid and wire brush to remove the residue. Who ever put it there should clean it up. Soda blasting might be a good option. Contact a contractor that has this equipment. The only other option is to scrape and paint.
It is older, probably dates to the fifties. We have had an ongoing water problem when it rains seems to be always on the west facing part of the building. We have cauled, painted redid a great product on the roof flat but it is still having a water issue. We considered stuccoing it but our smart guy has suggested we do an Elastomeric coating. The paint is not peeling noticeably anywhere.
The paint contractor is going to power wash scrape and then caulk and do 2 coats of the Elastomeric coating in the way we have read to do it, spray back roll cure between coats. My concern is that if the paint does not come off with the power wash will we be able to get good mechanical adhesion on the clean painted block? I have the equipment to go out and sandblast the block but my partner feels the sandblasting will be to aggressive and wear out the old blocks and create a worse problem.
And he could be right. The goal is to get a seal on the long term blocks so moisture does not make its way through and disturb the tenants offices with leaking.
Please advise with your experience and wisdom. Thank you. The elastomeric should stick well over the old paint but the old paint can be primer to make sure there is good adhesion. Sandblasting is an option as long as no damage occurs.
Priming is an easier alternative that will provide the increased bond you desire. I have 67 feet of an exterior 40 year old cinder block wall on my property.
It has concrete stain, oil-based paint, then acrylic paint in that order. I am assuming the last paint was acrylic because that is most of what is peeling away from the white oil-based underneath. However, some of the white oil-based has peeled off also to reveal the old dark green concrete stain. I am assuming this is because the concrete was never sealed or primed. I scraped all that would come off, had any loose mortar repaired and cracks filled, and now I must paint.
It looks awful, it is the first week of September in Michigan, I work and I am not a young gal anymore. I would like to try and paint it myself with the very best products available so that I wont have to do it again for a long time. What kind of block filler should I use to cover this mess, and what kind of elastomeric paint would take a neutral color and last the longest?
Thank you so much. Prime the wall first with a good universal primer, like Zinsser or equivalent. This will help get the new paint to stick and fill some pores. If needed use an acrylic block filler over the primer but you could just apply 1 or 2 heavy coats of elastomeric, Sherwin Williams Sherlastic is good and inexpensive as well. If you roll it on you should be able to fill most pores. A lot of work for sure but it will last.
I have a s CMU garage. I assume it has lead paint, but it seems very intact. I just had waterproofing done with some sort of rubber membrane.
It goes up about 15 inches on the walls interior and my contractor says it can be painted over with no problems. That removed a lot of dirt.
Do I also need to wash them with TSP or anything else? When it still leaked I called the waterproofer. I still need to paint the main 14 x 22 garage section. There are a few sections of unpainted CMU where some shelving units had been installed. I plan to use the remaining dry lock as a block filler for those sections. Now the questions: Should I prime the whole thing? Should I prime it with block filler? Should I put a finish coat over the dry lock in the back room or will that work fine as a finish coat?
One of your posts suggested using a satin or semi gloss finish for easier cleaning. The waterproofing contractor filled some cracks and holes in the block with polyurethane caulk. One of your posts said polyurethane caulk needs to be primed. What do I prime it with? Prime the whole thing with an oil based primer, like Zinsser Cover Stain. This will produce a good foundation for the new paint. The poly caulk needs priming with the same oil based primer prior to painting.
The dry lock can be painted over if wanted. Shinier paints are easier to clean but flat is fine if this is your preference. I have new foundation split face block walls that I am going to paint. We are along a creek and in a flood zone and it will flood at some point.
Do I seal the interior or do I seal the exterior? Or both? I am also not opposed to other brands. I would love to use an airless paint sprayer too if I can find one that the primer will work with.
Thanks for in advance for your advice! You want to seal the foundation from the outside if possible. Damage to the cement foundation could happen if moisture is trapped in the walls. Possible french drain with sump pump could also help, if applicable. Paint and primer, such as Loxon and Resilience, are above ground only. Do I really need an oil based primer?
I thought black filler was a primer. Since the current paint, modern acrylic or latex, peeled a better primer is needed to make sure the new paint sticks and not peel in the future. Choosing a thicker paint, like an elastomeric coating will also help fill the pores. I am in the process of finishing my garage walls and inside garage foundation blocks. I am preparing to install a resistance pool in the 3rd garage space and want the area to be as waterproof as possible. I realize that I will need to clean off any drywall patching mud and paint that has landed on the blocks but it will not be possible for me to wash the area as I have heavy equipment that will be difficult to move at this time.
Clean any debri off of blocks and vacuum and sweep off before going to the next step 2. Since the blocks in some areas are not smooth, I was going to apply 2 coats of acrylic block fill primer 3.
Next, paint 2 coats of satin Sherwin Williams acrylic paint 4. Since the pool will cause moisture and possible water splashing on to the foundation blocks, I was going to add caulk to the area where the painted drywall meets the foundation block and where the foundation block meets the finished epoxy floor. I want it to be sealed as best that it can. What type of caulk would you recommend?
Can you let me know if this sounds like a good plan or is there something I am missing or that you would change? Can you recommend any specific products for the block fill primer?
Sound like a good plan. The best caulk is a good urethane, Sherwin Williams Shermax will work well. Any good acrylic block fill primer will work, the most important part is what is put over it. Older basement 50s, cinder block, Was painted white, with with some areas of Efflorescence.
Was scraping the efflor.. Some places the paint is adhered well to the block. A little bit of a hodgepodge. Then paint with some primer just not sure if Oil Based or Water Based would be best. Is that true? Sorry for the late reply.
Could use no-rinse TSP, easier to use and still does a good job. Your local hardware store should have some. Use an acrylic bonding primer, Zinsser Regular wall paint can be used and any sheen, whatever you prefer. No need to go with flat unless that is your preferred sheen. My house was built in and the basement is unfinished with cinder block. The cinder block was painted white by the previous owner no idea what he used and could use a touch up after all of these years.
The paint is not peeling. The walls are dry. What type of paint would you recommend and what should I do to prepare the surface before doing so? Do I need to re-prime the surface given the age?
Appreciate any guidance that someone can give. Most likely regular latex or acrylic house paint was used. Go a head and use a good quality interior paint, sheen your choice. Stains will need priming with a stain blocking primer, shellac or oil based work best. If it softens then it is a latex regular type of paint and no priming is needed. Whoever owned the home prior painted them incorrectly and they are chipping and flaking and water has gotten in at some point.
No water has been in the home for 20 years. Sump pump installed with drain tile The walls are crumbly in some spots and there looks like there may be mold. Which do I use? Do I use TSP after scraping? I would like to seal it for moisture and also paint it. Thank you so much! First wash everything and kill the mold. Scrape away any loose material then prime.
Either primer is fine, depends of the overall condition of your walls. If you have a lot of stains then the restoration primer would be better. Thanks for responding!
Wondering about the paint. Should I use a drylock or regular paint? We have 2 dehumidifiers and a sump pump. No actual water just damp feeling. Will that work? Thanks again! If you think there is excessive water vapor in the block wall then use the Dryloc, better product all around.
Trapping water in concrete, block or otherwise, will degrade the walls over time causing all kinds of future damage. Hi, Thanks for this page. I started prepping a concrete block wall that is part of a semi-finished stairwell outside my house that leads to an unfinished basement the blocks are below ground. The house is old and the concrete blocks are painted likely in the past 25 years. Some of the blocks appear to have a light green? Concrete is porous , meaning it can hold moisture.
Then, spread a drop cloth out on the ground. With that done, apply a thin coat of either concrete primer or concrete sealer to the wall. Use a primer or sealer explicitly intended for concrete. Using a broad paintbrush can help you apply a smooth coat of the primer.
The amount of time the sealer or primer takes to dry depends on the brand you selected and how thick a coat you applied. Always follow the directions that come with the sealer you purchased. Expect the primer to take at least four hours to dry. While you may not want to drag the painting process out any longer than necessary, leaving the sealer or primer to dry overnight might be the most convenient option.
Exterior acrylic house paint and exterior latex masonry paint will both work for this step. Whichever paint you choose, ensure it has the durability necessary to withstand moisture and changing temperatures.
You can use the same paintbrush you used for the sealer or primer after cleaning it. However, for large and hard-to-reach areas, you may want to invest in a roller. Once you apply a thin layer of paint, leave it to dry. Depending on the paint you used and how thickly you applied it, this will likely take anywhere between four and eight hours. You may want to leave it to dry overnight before moving on to the next step. However, only do so after the first coat is completely dry.
If the first coat of paint is still a little wet, applying another coat over the top can cause streaking, peeling, and an uneven look. When you finish applying the second coat of paint, leave it to dry before using the space again.
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